I’m sure you’ve already read our “Cotton: 8 Reasons Why Organic Matters” post on cotton fabrics. Well, now we’re diving into wool yarn, in a two-part series. Some of us fiber artists choose our wool yarn or fibers without giving it a second thought. Others, like me, think about it, but aren’t always sure what the right choice is. What IS “going green” when it comes to wool? Is there a way to get it all? What if I want organic wool, made in the USA, grown locally without going broke? Ok, so that’s asking for the moon, but there are some things to think about. Most importantly, keep your personal values in mind.

What is Wool?

Wool is a protein fiber, which means it comes from certain types of animals; namely, sheep, goats, rabbits, alpacas, and camels. It is widely used due to it’s unique characteristics. Wool is naturally resistant to things like dust and mildew, while also being flame resistant, wrinkle resistant and even water repelling on the surface of some wools, such as Merino. In addition, wool is beautiful, warm, durable, soft, and can be dyed in a rainbow of colors.

 

 Weird Wool Fact:  President Woodrow Wilson allowed sheep to graze on the White House lawn, and one of his rams, Old Ike, chewed tobacco! He had wool from the sheep sold to help raise money for the Red Cross during World War I.

 

Wool Production: Conventional vs. Organic

90% of the world’s sheep produce wool. Australia is, by far, the world’s leader in both traditional and organic wool production, while the United States doesn’t even make the top ten list, accounting for less than 1% of the world’s wool production. This is why it would be hard to find a wool yarn that’s both Made in the USA AND organic. The organic wool production industry is very small in the U.S. Full Belly Farm and Mountain Spun Farm are small organic farms in Vermont that sell wool yarn. And Swans Island merino wool yarn is certified organic from farm to mill, located in Maine. O-wool is organic and more widely available, and comes close to Made in the USA, as they import their organic wool fibers from Australia, then produce (spin, skein, and dye) their yarn in the USA. Lion Brand has an LB Collection Pure Wool Yarn that is “natural”, but not certified organic, and IS Made in the USA.

 

 

Conventional livestock (sheep) production may include some unsavory practices such as docking, mulesing, and castration, all normally performed at a very young age without any anesthetic. Docking is the shortening of the tail to help prevent fly strike (Myasis). Mulesing is a less common procedure (being phased out in some countries, like New Zealand) in which strips of skin are removed from the rear end of the sheep to also prevent fly strike. Castration may also be performed on young rams for flock management. Dipping is another practice that puts both the animal and the handler at risk, as it immerses a sheep in pesticides (sometimes containing highly toxic organophosphates) for external parasite management. Click here for a list of commonly used drugs in sheep production.

 

Did You Know? One pound of wool can be spun into 20 miles of yarn!

 

Sheep on certified organic farms are not subjected to such inhumane and potentially harmful practices. Certified organic livestock (sheep) production is held to the The Organic Trade Association’s strict standards, including a third-party verification. Certified Organic means that a third-party verifies that the farm is following through with the OTA standards, in which the farmer must focus on prevention (rather than treatment) when it comes to livestock health. Being antibiotic- and pesticide-free, the organic farmer must strategically manage the livestock’s health through pasturing, good nutrition (100% organic feed), vaccinations, controlled grazing, and quick isolation of sick animals. This natural process reduces stress to the animals and to the environment. So, by comparison, there is clearly some strong differences between conventional wool production and organic. Organic, for me, is the best choice for my conscience, but buying local is also viable option. Local markets are a great source for a more naturally raised wool yarn, but a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) may be even better. Look here for a CSA in your area.

 

Wool Processing: What happens AFTER shearing?

After wool has been sheared from the sheep, known as “greasy wool”, it requires a certain amount of “processing” to remove the lanolin, dirt, vegetable matter, dead skin, etc, to get it ready for spinning. Scouring is the conventional process in which harsh cleaning agents, detergents, chemical bleaching, and sometimes chemical carbonization might take place. Certified organic wool still needs to be washed, but in contrast to the conventional methods, no chemicals are used in the washing or dyeing of the wool. Only natural, non-toxic, and biodegradable products are used and water sources must be sustainable and pollutant-free.

 

Coming soon: “The Timid Crocher: Going Green with Wool {Part 2}”, highlighting the benefits of wool yarn made in the USA, plus the cost differences of buying organic or local vs. buying the cheap stuff. What are you getting for your money?
Resources: Sheep101.com, O-wool.com, Sheep201.com, Wikipedia.org, OTA.com